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Rate Shopping? Below are non-misleading outside source 'National Average'** mortgage rates actually delivered to real borrowers within the past week across the U.S.. Please keep reading for more invaluable "Rate Quote" information:
FYI: We do offer better than average retail rates as well as wholesale rates to highly qualified borrowers!
Contact Us for Details!
Want more information?!
Read our FREE
FYI: Long-term mortgage rates are determined by Mortgage Backed Securities (MBS) that react many times inversely to stocks (ie: Stocks Up, MBSs Down = Mortgage Rates Up).
Refresh you Browser for Updates
We Highly Recommend -Educated Consumers read the following ...
Fact: Published, Quoted and Web posted mortgage rates are nothing more than plain old fashioned Advertising - designed to get borrowers into the loan process.
There is Absolutely No Guarantee the Advertised or Quoted Rate will be honored.
Mortgage rates are Program Specific, Borrower Specific and adjust constantly throughout the day based on market conditions - just like stocks.
Only a detailed analysis of Your specific information can result in accurate program placement. Then and only then can appropriate rate information be determined.
Contact one of our Mortgage Specialists for your FREE mortgage financing evaluation.
We "Shop" on Your behalf!
Looking for a " No Cost", " Flat Fee" or even " Wholesale Mortgage" loan? Click Here
**The above displayed "National Average Mortgage Rates" are provided by HSH. These rates are derived daily from 200 objectively surveyed lenders ... as opposed to advertised and possibly misleading rates offered or promoted by less sincere lenders and/or other rate sources. Please contact your State Street Mortgage Specialist for program specific rates of interest available for Your customized mortgage financing. Rates and points are subject to change without notice and may vary based on mortgage product, the creditworthiness of the individual borrower and other loan specific information.
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Borrower Q & A

Interested in substantive answers to your mortgage questions?! Visit our MySpace Blog!
Recently Asked and Answered Mortgage & Real Estate Questions
Q: I'm looking at a television commercial right now from Capitol One where they advertise a fixed rate home loan UNDER prime. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't Prime at 8.25% and 30 year fixed rates at about 6.25%? It's my limited understanding that Prime has absolutely nothing to do with fixed mortgage rates of interest, so why would they advertise in such a fashion?
A: Like many of today's well informed consumers ... your knowledge is obviously not so limited. Capital One is most certainly advertising to the 'lowest common denominator' when they make such ridiculous claims.
You are absolutely correct that Prime has NOTHING to do with Fixed rates of interest and currently Prime is well above available conforming Fixed Mortgage Rates. Capital One's marketing department must have had a few too many lattes when they came up with that commercial.
Being a mortgage lender that treats others as I would myself want to be treated, I am constantly amazed by the lengths at which supposedly reputable lenders will go to hook borrowers into using them for a mortgage. Last night I was watching T.V. and a "New, revolutionary mortgage" was introduced in a commercial...
DITECH: The Real Life Plan DITECH states; "Imagine combining a competitively priced, low fixed-rate, 30-year first mortgage, a no-fee home equity line and a free "Ditech Equity Rewards" MasterCard that actually pays down your mortgage principal every time you use it. An exclusive ditech idea"
Um, nothing new about this. My company routinely offers better 30 year fixed rates than DITECH and our Equity Flexline's come at no cost to the borrower with better terms than DITECH offers. Want a credit card that pays you a couple pennies for every hundred dollars you charge - you don't have to look very far. But I have no doubt people will call DITECH the twentieth time they see the commercial. In the end they could have gotten a better deal from a local broker like myself - but I'll still be here next time they REALLY want the best program :o)
By the way, DITECH also offers a "Sleep EZ Loan" (Interest Only) and an "Equity Builder" (Bi-Weekly Payment) mortgage program. Again, nothing revolutionary about the programs, just the names they are using in an attempt to convince borrowers the only place and the only rates & terms available for such programs are through DITECH.
The DITECH web site proclaims "People are smart" at the top ... a generous marketing tool to keep people from comparison shopping!
As a mortgage company owner, I also believe people are smart. This is why we encourage borrowers to understand the difference between mortgage lenders before they commit to an advertised program that may or may not be the best solution for their specific situation.
The more others posture and under-deliver, the more my services will stand out from the crowded marketplace! Best of all, I can sleep at night knowing I have done the best job possible for my borrowers.
Q: I have been seeing that Bank of America is now offering a No Fee Mortgage. This sounds like a great way to save money. Is the mortgage business slowing to the point that banks are now eating fees and offering better deals like the automobile industry or is there a catch I should be aware of?
A: You are being wise to question the reality of a mortgage where "If it sounds to good too be true, it probably is."
Bank of America is really just catching-up with other lenders that have been promoting "No Fee" or "No Cost" mortgages as a way of getting consumers to call. They are trying to keep up with the other lenders that have successfully advertised these 'revolutionary mortgage programs' and had success in getting loan applications because people WANT to believe there is always a better mortgage available - but a couple of old sayings come to mind: i.e. "There is no truth in advertising" and of course "Caveat Emptor" (Buyer Beware).
It's a fact that a No Cost Mortgage means that the borrower does not pay any loan associated fees whatsoever. All fees associated with the mortgage are paid by the lender - the lender recovers these fees in the form of a higher rate of interest, where the rate increase earns the lender more revenue upon resale of the mortgage into the secondary market Thus allowing the lender the absorb the loan associated closing fees while still making a profit.
Another 'No Cost' program that has been marketed for many years is where the costs are paid by the Seller. This generally requires the Buyer to pay a higher purchase price for the property so that the Seller still nets-out their required bottom-line amount from the sale of their property (ie: if a Seller would sell their home for $220,000 and you request the Seller contribute $5,000 toward your closing costs, the Seller may consider this if you instead pay $225,000 for the home but keep in mind, the home must also appraise for the higher amount). As you can see, in either of these cases No Cost always has a cost.
As always - Consumers need to have a complete understanding of exactly what options are available and which type of program is most advantageous as a whole. The Flat-Fee, Reduced-Fee or No-Fee loan option has a place if this type of loan makes good financial sense for the borrower and their specific borrowing scenario.
Also, not all lenders are created equal when it comes to how much rate "bump" equals a specified closing cost reduction (ie: does a .25% rate bump always = a $500 closing cost reduction?). Consumers should not assume that an offered rate bump by any one lender is the best available tradeoff of an increased rate versus a certain "Flat Fee" or "No Cost" financing.
Be sure to consult with a reputable/recommended mortgage broker before finalizing any loan scenario. It will always be in your best interest to have an impartial industry professional with an unlimited number of mortgage programs work on your behalf (as opposed to 'selling' you any specific mortgage product that must in fact pay for all the advertising that brought you to the lender in the first place).
For more information on this topic, I biasedly suggest readers to visit: What is a "Flat Fee", "One Fee" or "No Cost" Mortgage
Other Borrower Questions & Answers are available at: http://Blog.Myspace.com/StateStreetMortgage
Q: We are trying to figure out ways to get us qualified for a higher loan value. Is there anything that we can do to get us into something at a lower payment now? Houses that are worth living in with two small children are right around $200,000. One just sold down the street to a gentleman that works with my husband and his wife doesn't work - any ideas as to how they got a $200,000 dollar loan? We are getting a tad frustrated looking at fixer uppers, when there are people in worse financial shape buying nice houses. Thank you for any suggestions you may have.
A: I understand your frustration. However, I'm a straight shooter and the $150,000 purchase financing approval that I have issued on your behalf is based on a home that you will be comfortable in affording according to our previous conversations.
I'm more than willing to work on other options to push your buying price limit... but I must point out, when comparing your own situation to a neighbor or co-worker - I find it's almost impossible to find the REAL facts that went into their home purchase and what their financing terms really are (ie: did they put more money down, do they have additional income your not aware of, did they get a risky mortgage with a artificially low teaser rate and monthly payments, etc.).
On this subject I always tell the story of when I went to an open house party for a customer of mine that purchased new construction. I had financed many of the neighbors that attended the party being as the subdivision home builder recommends me to his potential buyers due to my variety of programs and individual approach to financing. I was introduced upon arrival as "the mortgage guy" and the topic of discussion immediately turned to mortgages and rates of interest.
No two neighbors I had financed had the exact same mortgage or rate of interest due to their unique borrowing circumstances - even if they closed within a couple days of each other on a similar priced home. At the time most of these neighbors had locked-in their financings, the best interest rate for a 30 year fixed mortgage was about 6.625%. One gentleman that I did not finance proudly stated he got a 30 year fixed 100% VA mortgage at 5.500% ... and none of my customers had done nearly as well. I asked him if he was sure about his rate and program, to which he responded "absolutely positive" - making the 'mortgage guy' look like crap.
A little while later I cornered this same guy in the kitchen and asked where he got his loan, because VA rates are typically higher than conventional rates. When I pressed him on his facts, he leaned out the sliding glass door and asked his wife to confirm their 5.500% rate of interest. His wife responded their rate was 8.500%. The guy said he must have been mistaken ... but by then, none of my customers where listening to our conversation.
Additionally, as you may be aware the media is heavily reporting that a sky-high amount of people are going into foreclosure due in-part to the fact that the homeowners got into risky mortgages offering initial low teaser rates that allowed the homeowners to stretch into homes they otherwise could not have afforded. Once these risky loan programs show their true terms (ie: adjusting from 4.8% to 9.8%) the homeowner finds themselves unable to make payments or even able to refinance back into a similar low payment program ... resulting in foreclosure, no home and decimated credit.
Per your request I will do what I can to assist you in buying the higher priced home you desire ... rest assured you will know ALL the plus' and minus' of programs you qualify for to ensure you make choices you can live with when you buy your new home.
Buying a home can be a stressful endeavor as you are realizing. In my opinion the best way to approach any such major life decision is to be well informed. I would like to remind you that our full service mortgage web site of www.baybridgesalem.com has many useful home buying resources such as our:
We even have helpful online downloadable documents such as our:
I hope you have found this information to be in your best interest and will talk with you tomorrow. -Bill
Q: Whats going on in the mortgage industry? I keep reading that mortgage lenders are going out of business. How with this effect my home buyers?
A: It’s all over the news and yes, it is really happening. Major lenders are closing their doors, mortgage programs are being eliminated or revised and consumers facing up to 50% hikes in the payments on adjustable-rate mortgages may find they can’t qualify for a new loan.
This is especially bad timing for homeowners that must make the hard decision to sell their homes when they can no longer afford the mortgage payments … only to find that their home is worth less than they paid for it two (2) years ago – when they took out that 100% Adjustable Rate Mortgage to afford it.
Just like the recent stock market correction, this is a cyclical mortgage market correction. Aggressive mortgage loan programs offered by mortgage investors attempting to maintain revenue numbers achieved during the refinance and housing booms of recent years resulted in loosening loan standards that in-turn lead to mortgage defaults. In the case of two dozen major lenders, this has also led to the collapse of their companies.
Countrywide Financial Inc. (the nation’s no. 1 lender) and WMC Mortgage (a lending unit of General Electric Co.) told brokers they would stop making loans covering 100% of a home’s value for customers with low credit scores. New Century Financial Corp., one of the industry’s biggest lenders, said Thursday it would stop taking loan applications because its Wall Street banks had cut off credit and is expected to seek bankruptcy protection.
Locally in Illinois, HSBC North America based in Prospect Heights - one of the largest banking and financial organizations in the world with about 6,000 Chicago-area workers is reevaluating its future while Fremont Investment & Loan’s local Downer’s Grove facility has already “ceased residential lending” and shuttered the doors on its 60,000 square feet of office space, leaving employees wondering how they will make their own mortgage payments.
State Street Mortgage - Better Options for ALL Credit & Situations
State Street Mortgage with local Illinois offices in Sycamore and Yorkville remain committed to our customers and business partners by assisting area home buyers and home owners make educated decisions on mortgage financing.
Mortgage programs and the investors that provide these programs come and go. The present mortgage market situation is a classic example of this. Times like these reinforce the value of the successful Mortgage Specialists of State Street Mortgage. As some investors fade into the sunset, others will fill the void and State Street Mortgage will continue ensuring each and every client receives the best possible mortgage financing for their specific borrowing situation.
Mortgage Lending is ALL We Do! How may we assist you and your home buyers?!
Q: I am looking to refinance and would like to use a local lender like yourself. However, I notice that I can get lower rates outside of the area when I check the posted rates in the financial sections of several Chicago area publications. Is there a reason these lower rates are not being offered locally.
A: You say that you are checking the financial sections of Chicago publications ... so I assume you are relying on these posted and printed rates as objective, fact based information. Unfortunately they are not - this information is advertising designed to look like objective consumer information.
As an example of what you were finding in the supposedly credible financials section of a major newspaper, I went to the Chicago Tribune web site and researched mortgage rates. On a day where truly deliverable rates for a 30 year fixed purchase mortgage assuming no points was at 6.250% ... the Chicago Tribune reported a rate of 5.750%. How could this be?!
The Chicago Tribune and most publications are 'for profit' companies that rely on advertising within their publications for a majority of their income. Advertisers such as Bankrate.com and in the case of the Chicago Tribune; Interest.com pay the publications to be the provider of "Average Mortgage Rates" in the financial and real estate sections of these publications.
So how do these 'providers' make money?! By teasing consumers with unobtainable rates of interest so that the consumer will enter into the loan process via their service. The information that consumer's provide toward obtaining this 'best rate mortgage' is either sold to mortgage companies as a "lead" or processed by the company itself toward a profitable mortgage transaction ... where the original posted rate will never end up being delivered.
Bottom Line: There is a price for money in today's world-wide market where total rates and fees on a mortgage transaction among credible/competitive lenders will only vary by as little as .125%. When a rate of interest is posted anywhere that is .25% to .75% lower than those posted by reputable lenders ... a couple of old sayings come to mind: i.e. "There is no truth in advertising", "If it sounds to good too be true, it probably is" and of course, "Caveat Emptor" (Buyer Beware).
As a consumer service, our own web site of www.baybridgesalem.com does provide truly objective "National Average Mortgage Rates". These rates are provided by an outside source that objectively surveys 200 reputable lenders daily ... as opposed to advertised and possibly misleading rates offered or promoted by less sincere lenders and/or other rate sources. Please use this resource as an indication of the current rate environment.
If you desire an actual deliverable rate quote for your specific borrowing situation, contact a State Street Mortgage Specialist for a FREE Proposal of Financing.
Q: Hello Bill, I'm currently out of town but can you write back and tell me or give me an example on what you mean by -Wholesale, Retail, $350 Flat Rate and No Cost mortgages. How different are the rates/costs??? Thank you
A: Examples and descriptions of the Wholesale vs. Retail vs. Flat Fee (ie: $350.00) vs. No Cost (ie: No Closing Costs) programs is available on our Products page, specifically within the Your Choice!* Mortgage & No-Cost / Low-Cost Mortgages descriptions.
The actual differences between programs vary greatly based on which mortgage loan program or terms you desire, the loan amount, etc.
If there is a specific scenario you would like me to evaluate and compare, please let me know.
Q: Bill, what do you think of Dave Ramsey? Is it worth looking into? What are your thoughts? Thanks for the input.
A: Dave Ramsey is a radio talk show host and author of The Total Money Makeover: A Proven Plan for Financial Fitness. Mr. Ramsey preaches a 'snowball' approach to paying down your debt by making minimum payments on all debts, except debt with the lowest balances. In short, he advocates paying-off low balance debts and applying the former payments to the next remaining lowest balance debt until the next debt is paid-in-full. Repeat this process until all debts are paid. Pretty simple, right?!
For my money, if this were my only solution I can do better by eliminating my debts based on the highest rate of interest being charged … due to the fact that higher interest rate debts compound the money owed. My lowest rate of interest on any debt happens to be my mortgage, which also has the built-in ability to reduce my income taxes due to the fact that the interest paid annually is tax deductible … so I'll work on my highest rate credit card debt first.
I'm not saying Ramsey's method is without merit, just that it can be maximized if used in conjunction with other means of debt elimination. For most home owners, including (I'm assuming) Mr. Ramsey … Mortgage Refinance – Debt Consolidations are the most practical solution in jump-starting real debt relief. A mortgage debt consolidation redistributes higher interest rate debt into a low rate/tax deductible structure that results in instant and many times substantial payment savings which can then be applied toward accelerated elimination of any remaining debts, including the mortgage itself.
In researching your personal situation, a new 15 year fixed mortgage paying off your existing mortgages and high rate/high balance credit cards results in a $1,410.32 monthly payment savings. If you applied this savings to your remaining debt, you could pay-off your home and be debt free in 5 years! Mr. Ramsey would be proud ;o)
Q: Hi, I bought my house 4 years before I met my husband and I do not want his name on my deed, but I would like to refinance and he has better credit so I was wondering if he could do the refinancing without his name being on the deed or having to be put on the deed? I am trying to avoid having his name on my deed. Thanks for your response.
A: You can refinance in your husband's name only being as he is married to you and you own the home ... however, being as your husband is 'refinancing' a mortgage using the home as collateral - he must have ownership interest during the process.
Once the refinance is complete, your husband can divest his ownership interest by removing his name off the deed via a recorded "Quit Claim". An attorney should be consulted regarding this step, being as the new mortgage holder may require notification of such a change in ownership with the option of demanding the balance of the new financing "due" upon such a change.
Additionally, you may want to discuss your husband's willingness to put himself in a situation where he will be responsible for the mortgage but have no ownership interest in the property securing the mortgage.
Q: I have been receiving your emails for about a year now. I read them, copy many of them but am missing the one you sent about using a tax id number to purchase a house. I own a business and wondered if there is a loan where I can use the business tax id number, making the business the owner of the house?
A: The Tax Identification mortgage program that you refer to does not use a business tax identification number ... it is a program for borrowers that do not have social security numbers, yet pay their U.S. personal income taxes via an Individual Tax Identification Number (ITIN). Without much exception, this is generally a situation where the borrower is not a U.S. citizen.
For more information on this program, click the following link: Tax ID Mortgage Program; No SSN, No Visa - No Problem
If you have a social security number and desire to purchase a home using a conventional mortgage - the credit associated with your social security number will be considered for mortgage qualification purposes.
Please let me know if you would like me to explore your personal mortgage financing options.
Q: I applied for a equity loan with my bank and although I have yet to decide if I want the loan, my mail box is suddenly overflowing with mortgage company post cards and mail pieces wanting my business. I would like to work with a local lender like yourself to further research my options, but I am now nervous about giving out my information again ... is it my imagination or does everybody suddenly know I am looking for an equity line?
A: It's not your imagination - everybody that want's to know DOES know you recently had your credit checked by your bank, presumably as part of a mortgage application based on the type of credit reviewed.
Your "inquiry data" and personal information was subsequently sold by the credit bureau as a sales lead to other lenders.
Be angry, be furious - protect yourself now!
Credit bureaus have found a way to increase their revenues at your expense … and without your permission. These "inquiry leads" include name, address, phone numbers (including unlisted), credit score, current debt and debt history, property information, age, gender and estimated income. They are selling your personal, confidential information to competing creditors … and making millions.
Worse yet, your privacy is being sold, not just once, but over and over again
And lenders that purchase these leads at a premium will then do everything they can to recoup their investment and turn a hefty profit. Super sneaky bait and switch tactics are being used to lure clients away from the consumer's chosen/reputable lender. Clients have even been called by disreputable lenders and told that the lender they had been speaking to previously "passed on" the information to them, because they knew that they'd be able to offer much better interest rates and terms. Ouch!
The good news is that you can make it stop, right away. And pass this information on to everyone you know - your friends, family members, neighbors and coworkers.
The consumer credit reporting industry has provided a way to "opt out" and remove your name from these lists. You can contact them by phone at 888-567-8688 or online at www.OptOutPrescreen.com.
BONUS: Opting out will also protect you from "pre-approved credit offers" arriving via mail...one of the leading causes of identity theft.
You certainly have the right to shop for the best professional to meet your lending needs - but this should be done when and how YOU choose, not being done without your consent or permission. Looking around should be on your terms, not being done as a sneak attack, because they think you won't know better. And unfortunately, these unsolicited marketing tactics are an intrusive and many times costly nuisance, but quite legal.
So take your privacy back … refuse to be a victim of this system. Take five minutes right now - opt out, and then forward this information on to your friends, family members and coworkers for their benefit.
Our office welcomes the opportunity to work with you, please give us a call to discuss the entire situation - I'm sure we can satisfy both your borrowing and privacy needs.
Q: I am confused by the large difference in mortgage rates on different web sites. The rates that you post on your company web site are higher than many other sites. So are your rates really higher or are the others not accurate? Just curious.
A: Thanks for asking such a great question … you must be familiar with Caveat Emptor (buyer beware)! In a world of fierce competition and advertising – there appears to be little or No Truth In Advertising from many mortgage lenders.
Mortgage companies get their money from the same secondary market, making the price of money roughly the same for all lenders. With so many lenders standing in line to get your business, many lenders resort to less than honest advertising designed to get consumers into the loan process. What better way to make the phone ring than to advertise lower rates and fees than all the competition.
On a personal note, when I was first getting started in the mortgage business I worked for a mortgage company based in Aurora, Illinois. The company president would inform all loan officers when she was going to advertise lower than available mortgage rates in the local newspaper. The phones would be ringing and she wanted all loan officers manning their desks. This way of doing business is unfortunately not uncommon – and the above mentioned company continues to this day to find it's customers in this same fashion.
The best way to ensure you are getting the best available mortgage has been and always will be to work with a local, reputable mortgage specialist that can shop on your behalf and that actually has your best interest as their only goal. For more information on advertised mortgage rates please read the Fall 2006 edition of our Home Finance Newsletter or visit the Frequently Asked Questions of our site.
Q: I am considering using LendingTree to make sure I get the best mortgage, but I really want to work with a local lender. Is your company one of the banks that will be making me an offer through LendingTree?
A: No. The lenders that are in the LendingTree 'network' must pay a great deal of money for the leads that are provided from loan applicants like yourself. These lenders must recover their LendingTree advertising costs to justify the expense. It stands to reason that the LendingTree provided borrower will somehow cover this cost in the form of a higher rate and/or fees.
State Street Mortgage as a matter of company policy does not pay any third-party company like LendingTree to bring you into our office. We rely on past satisfied customers, attorneys, financial planners and professional real estate recommendations to introduce us to most our new customers. By not paying huge advertising or lead producing expenses we have lower operating expenses which allow us to deliver the best possible mortgage program for the specific borrowing situation of our committed borrowers.
We welcome working on your behalf to ensure you really do get the best mortgage.
For more information on LendingTree and advertised rates from other lenders, please read the Fall 2006 edition of our Home Finance Newsletter or visit the Frequently Asked Questions of our site.
Q: We have tried to obtain a mortgage to purchase a new home, but our credit prevents us from qualifying. An opportunity to buy a new home through a private investor has been presented to us with the following terms - the private investor will negotiate a purchase price for the home from the builder, obtain a mortgage for the home, allow us to move into the home and make payments to the private investor. The private investor says our monthly payments will equal their own payments, that they are not making money from our monthly payments. The investor will make their money when they sell the home to us for the true value of the home in 6 to 18 months, whenever we can clear-up our credit and get a mortgage.
The investor informed us the purchase offer to the builder was accepted today. I believe he offered $260,000.00 and we need to pay him $280,000.00. We are to drop off $1,000.00 to him today. The builder requires $2,500.00 to hold the home, which we will have to them by Friday.
We would of course prefer to secure the loan through your company and save ourselves $20,000.00. We are also worried about losing the home, and wonder if the builder would work with us, if we could move forward with you. Please let us know what you think.
A: I have reviewed your entire situation and as it stands, the best I can possibly offer is 95% financing due to your current credit. I say possibly, because you still have the following issues that may hinder program approval even with your current credit score meeting 95% program minimums:
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Bankruptcy discharged less than 12 months
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No proof of 12 on-time rental payments (ie: cancelled checks)
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Only 1 open credit trade line when most 95% and 100% programs require a minimum of 3 trade lines
If you do decide to move forward with the private investor ... I have the following concerns:
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The cost of borrowing the money for "6 to 18" months is a staggering $20,000.00.
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Your housing payments will initially increase approximately $1,000.00/month
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$950.00 rent vs. $2,000.00 mortgage & initial taxes
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The property taxes will increase to approximately $7,000/annually ... making your future monthly PITI payment = $2,500.00.
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The $1,000.00/month increased housing expense could be set-aside for down-payment money when you credit qualify to buy.
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You will still not be gaining any mortgage credit.
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There is no assurance that you will be able to refinance within the terms of the Contract for Deed.
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Your credit is very badly damaged from the bankruptcy and needs attention.
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I would be very concerned about what penalties are built into the agreement with the private investor if you cannot meet the terms of the Contract for Deed, Land Contract or whatever instrument you will be required to sign.
As mentioned previously, any person considering a Contract for Deed should hire an attorney to review the contract for concerns and obtain an independent appraisal of the property to ensure the property is worth the final contract option price.
I hope you found this information to be in your best interest.
Q: If I am selling house for $169,500.00 and requiring a $20,000 down payment, how do I apply the down payment when the buyer has paid me in full or is that up to me.
A: With a Contract-for-Deed sale the Seller retains the legal title to the property and the Buyer becomes the equitable owner entitled to the benefits of the ownership. This is an important legal matter that should not be taken lightly.
I truly hope both you and the Buyer are represented by reputable real estate attorneys, that you are obtaining an owners title insurance policy assuring the Buyer a clear transferable title and that you plan on recording the contract-for-deed to ensure all parties are protected while facilitating the Buyers ability to obtain future mortgage financing on the property to pay the balance due in-full as soon as possible.
How you apply the down payment should be clearly stipulated within the legally binding Contract-for-Deed agreed to and signed by both you (the Seller) and the Buyer.
State Street Mortgage can "refinance" Contract-for-Deed's (aka: land contracts) for borrowers that have a recorded 1 year interest in a property and proof of 12 on-time payments. Please ensure your Buyer makes the monthly payments via a personal checking account being as cash-payments to a private individual will not provide the necessary proof of on-time payments for future mortgage financing.
For more information on the critical issues both Sellers and Buyers must consider prior to entering into such a transaction, please read our special report titled "Rights and Obligations of Contract for Deed (or Land Contract) Home Buyers."
Receive a FREE copy of this report by simply clicking here:
Contract for Deed
We hope this information helps. Best of Luck!
Q: Can you tell me if my credit score has to be above 600 in order to get 100% financing? I have been trying for 6 months to raise my credit scores but no matter what I do it's not going up. My middle score is 560.
A: To give you a very general guideline as to the types of financing available for the purchase of owner occupied residential properties at different credit scores, please refer to the information below:
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490 Credit Score = 70% Loan-To-Value
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500 Credit Score = 90% Loan-To-Value
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540 Credit Score = 95% Loan-To-Value
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575 Credit Score = 100% Loan-To-Value
For more information about Credit Scores and Credit Reports please visit the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) section of our baybridgesalem.com web site.
Q: Can you tell me what the interest rate would be? I have a middle credit score of 560.
A: As you are aware, many factors go into the final mortgage rate of interest.
Consumer Credit Score (this is where we always start)
Type of Transaction (Purchase, Refinance, Cash-out, etc.)
Type of Loan Program (Conforming, Government, etc.)
Type of Rate (Fixed, Adjustable, etc.)
Loan Term (ie: 30 year, 15 year, etc.)
Loan-To-Value (Loan Amount vs. Value of Property)
Loan Amount
Taxes and Insurance Escrowed
Occupancy
Type of Property
Type of Zoning
Location of Property (programs can vary by State & zip code)
Type of Income Documentation
Type of Employment (Employee, Self Employed, etc.)
Time on Job (or same line of work)
Customer Debt-To-Income Ratio (Income vs. Expenses)
Amount of Reserves & Assets
Lock Term (ie: 30 days, 60 days, etc.)
Points or Fees Paid By Borrower
For discussion purposes, our office approved a $164,000 100% purchase mortgage just a few moments ago for a borrower with a 582 middle credit score. The Buyer's rate ended-up at 8.95% ... however, the loan program was 100% of the purchase price and the loan program did not require expensive private mortgage insurance and the Seller has agreed to pay all the closing costs.
The mortgage payments are comfortable for the buyer ... however, it is our goal to lower their payments as soon as possible. We expect their credit scores to improve nicely once their on-time mortgage payments are reported to credit for 12 or more months. Our office will be refinancing the mortgage as soon as it is advantageous to lower their rate & payments.
The new home buyer is thrilled that they will finally own a home 2 short weeks from now!
Q: Just curious, what is the difference between a mobile, manufactured or a modular home when it comes to getting a mortgage?
A: This is a great question. Our mortgage offices get at least one phone call a month regarding this issue ... usually from potential mobile home buyers having difficulty in finding a lender that will finance such a property.
Mobile/Manufactured homes have steel reinforced joists and I-beams that allow it to be transported ON WHEELS from the factory to the eventual home site. It is actually towed to its final resting place where the wheels and tow bar are removed. Mobile homes placed semi-permanently within a ‘trailer park’ or ‘manufactured home community’ are NOT eligible for mortgage financing as they are considered “personal property” just like an automobile - as opposed to "real property" or “real estate”.
Modular/Manufatured homes by contrast are simply pre-built ‘stick’ homes that do not have steel reinforced joists or I-beams and are NEVER on wheels (they are transported on special flat bed trailers). Modular homes are also recognizable by a HUD identification number assigned to the unit - the HUD number is usually affixed to the electrical service box inside the home.
If the manufactured home is placed permanently on a foundation that is on a property parcel owned solely by the home owner - mortgage financing may be available. This type of mortgage can be conventional or government financing – but either way the home must meet local guidelines for qualifying as actual real estate with a property parcel identification number.
I hope this clarifies the differences when it comes to mortgage financing for these different property types.
Q: Does it do any good that I have been paying two mortgages & have a history with Washington Mutual when I am considering a new mortgage loan?
A: Your past mortgage payment history and your ‘history’ as a customer are actually two different issues … especially when it comes to acquiring a new mortgage.
Mortgage payment history assists you in acquiring future mortgage financing from any future mortgage lender – regardless of which company actually collected the payments. This is due to the fact that mortgage payments are reported to the credit bureaus, helping to determine your future credit worthiness in the form of credit scores.
Past ‘history’ as a customer to any single mortgage servicing company (ie: Washington Mutual, ABN AMRO, Wells Fargo, GMAC, CitiMortgage, etc., etc...) unfortunately results in no advantage when it comes to new mortgage financing.
Mortgage company’s that both service and originate mortgage loans have two completely separate operating divisions.
Mortgage Servicing Divisions: Mortgage loans are commodities just like stocks and bonds. The servicing-side of these companies purchase large amounts of loans from originating mortgage companies across the country. These companies earn income from both the purchase and sale of mortgage loans. They also earn income from individual loan servicing which involves collecting mortgage payments, administrating property tax escrow accounts, etc.
Mortgage Originating Divisions: These same companies may or may not have an origination business that creates new mortgage loans. When a consumer contacts the mortgage servicing company seeking any type of new mortgage (ie: purchase, refinance, second mortgage, equity line of credit, etc.) the inquiry is forwarded to one of the company’s affiliate regional or national origination call centers. The borrower’s loan process starts from scratch with absolutely no benefit to the consumer for being a current or past customer.
In fact, these same mortgage companies many times don’t offer the most comprehensive or competitive mortgage loan programs to their own customers – due in part to the fact that they consider such a consumer as a captive lead that may not shop for a better deal. After all, as consciences consumers we all want to believe that our ‘history’ with any bank will be rewarded in the future. These lenders take full advantage of this emotion and common misconception. It’s a very proven and profitable way of doing business!
Mortgage brokerages that only originate mortgages pride themselves on keeping the big servicing banks as honest as possible by educating consumers as to where they can actually get the best deal … ensuring the best possible financing for your specific borrowing situation – regardless of which bank ends-up servicing the payments.
State Street Mortgage Specialists actually work on behalf of our customers by Shopping on Your Behalf … ensuring your good mortgage payment history reaps the most benefits.
Q: Is owner financing legal? Will it hurt your credit history?
A: Owner financing of a home purchase where the private owner agrees to accept monthly payments toward the pay-off of the agreed upon purchase price is perfectly legal ... but caution should be used as a borrower.
Such financing cannot hurt a credit history when (as in most cases) the credit is never reported to the traditional credit bureaus ... meaning a buyer/borrower that makes long-term, on-time private mortgage payments may never receive traditional positive credit for their efforts (which is a completely different kind of 'hurt).
That being said there are other critical issues that both a Buyer and Seller must consider prior to entering into a private mortgage transaction.
A home purchase that involves owner financing should include a Contract for Deed (otherwise known as a Land Contract) purchase agreement. This is where the Buyer agrees to purchase the home at an agreed upon sale price and down payment. The Buyer then makes monthly payments to the Seller with a stipulated term, rate of interest and date of final payment where the Contract for Deed must be paid in full.
A Buyer under a Contract for Deed has fewer rights than a Buyer who has obtained a traditional mortgage loan. A homebuyer should always consult with a local/reputable real estate attorney before signing any Contract for Deed.
Most Contract for Deed sales require only a small down payment. The Buyer agrees to pay the Seller or the Sellers real estate agency the total sales price plus an amount for interest monthly over a period of years. Only after the final payment, will the Buyer receive a deed and full ownership.
Some common and important questions regarding a Contract for Deed:
Should the Contract for Deed be in writing? A Buyer must get a written contract which is signed by both Buyer and Seller that has all the terms agreed to. Without a written contract, the Buyer will not be able to enforce the agreement if the Seller refuses to perform his or her part of the agreement.
Should I record the contract? Even if the contract states it cannot be recorded, every Contract for Deed should be recorded as soon as possible in the county where the property is located - in order to protect the Buyers interest.
Should I have the home appraised? YES. Otherwise you may be buying a property for more than it is worth.
Who is responsible for repairs? The Buyer of the home is generally responsible for making all repairs after the sale of the property. The Seller may be required to repair certain problems in the home that existed before the purchase date if:
1. The Seller has agreed to make the repairs; or 2. The Seller knew about the defects from city inspections and does not tell the Buyer; or 3. The Seller is guilty of fraud or misrepresentation.
Fraud and Misrepresentation: If the Seller of a home makes statements about the condition of the home which are untrue in order to convince the Buyer to purchase the home, the Buyer may be able to cancel the contract or force the Seller to repair certain defects. A Buyer should always make sure that the Sellers statements about the condition of the house are included in the written contract.
Who is responsible for real estate taxes and homeowners insurance? The Buyer of a home must generally pay for real estate taxes and homeowners insurance on the property after the sale is closed. Sometimes the Seller owes back taxes. The Buyer should check to see if any back taxes are owed. If there are unpaid back taxes, the Contract for Deed should say who will pay them.
The Buyer should make sure who will receive the real estate tax bills and homeowners insurance bills and make sure that these are paid when due.
If the Buyer is paying the real estate taxes and homeowners insurance by an escrow account, the monthly payments to the account will increase each year, as costs increase.
How can I prevent the loss of my home? A Buyer who receives a notice of foreclosure or a court summons should contact an attorney as soon as possible.
If a Buyer, under a Contract for Deed, fails to make the payments required by the contract, the Seller can declare an end to the contract and bring a court action to evict the Buyer from the house. The Seller will send, by mail, a written 30-day notice of ending the contract before the court case. Generally speaking, if the Buyer owes less than three-fourths of the purchase price, the court will allow the Buyer at least 60 days and may allow up to 180 days to pay the Seller the amount needed to bring the contract current. If the Buyer pays the required amount within this period, he or she will get contract rights back and he or she will be able to keep the house. Even if the Buyer owes more than three-fourths of the purchase price, the court may give up to 60 days to pay the amount and restore the contact rights.
How do I become the owner of my home? As the homebuyer, you must pay the balance owed to Seller in order to receive the Deed to the property. This is usually accomplished by refinancing the Contract for Deed into a traditional mortgage.
As a general rule, the Buyer will be able to refinance a Contract for Deed into a traditional mortgage after the Contract for Deed has been recorded for 12 months. Buyers need to be sure that the original Contract for Deed allows enough time for final payment, especially if time will be needed to correct credit issues or any other issues that prevented the Buyer from obtaining a traditional mortgage at the original time of purchase.
Q: Need a lender doing stated loans w/a rate lower than 8%, w/no tradelines, 40K income, and a mid-score of 647. please help?????
A: Stated Income mortgage programs are designed to reward borrowers that have good credit but have technical issues with proving their income. Originally only offered to self-employed borrowers, stated income products are now offered to W2 employees as well.
The fact that there is a credit score of 647 and at the same time “no trade lines” is confusing … unless you are indicating that all credit is past credit with no active/open trade lines due to the fact that all past loans have been paid-off. Stated income with no current trade lines is available at or below 8% given the proper circumstances.
A determination of available programs will require more information. Please understand that each listed item below is combined with all other applicable items for final program and pricing approval - making each scenario borrower specific:
- Type of Transaction (Purchase, Refinance, Cash-out, etc.)
- Type of Rate (Fixed, Adjustable, etc.)
- Loan-To-Value (Loan Amount vs. Value of Property)
- Loan Amount
- Occupancy (owner occupied, investment property)
- Type of Property (single family residence, 2 unit, 4 unit, etc.)
- Location of Property (programs can vary by State & zip code)
- Type of Employment (W2 Employee, Self Employed, etc.)
- Time on Job (or same line of work)
- Amount of Reserves & Assets
- Lock Term (ie: 30 days, 60 days, etc.)
As with any mortgage loan, a full review of a tri-merge credit report will be required … especially if there may be an issue of active or past trade lines.
Q: Does anyone know of any lenders that will finance 90% LTV on investment properties or someone that will make Hard Cash loans on them?
A: N/O/O Investment mortgage loan programs are available up to 100% Loan-to-Value (LTV) given the proper borrowing circumstances. 90% LTV N/O/O mortgages are readily available as either single loan or two loan programs (ie: 90 LTV or 80/10 LTV programs).
'Hard Money' private investor N/O/O mortgage loans are also readily available ... however; this type of loan does not generally go beyond 75% LTV due to the higher risks involved in a typical ‘hard money’ scenario that falls outside of standard lending guidelines set-forth by any of the main-stream secondary market pools of mortgage funds.
Your specific borrowing scenario will dictate which (if any) mortgage loan programs you will qualify for. Seek the assistance of a local/reputable mortgage broker that has experience in lending this type of money for comprehensive answers to your questions - hopefully allowing you to purchase the property(s) you desire.
Q: What happens to the equity of a refinance with NO cash out. Give example.
A: Equity in a property for lending purposes is the appraised value of the property minus the total liens on the property. As a simple example; a home valued at $100,000 that has a mortgage lien of $80,000 has a remaining equity balance of $20,000.
The question of “what happens to the equity in a refinance with NO cash out” is similar to the above example based on what type of mortgage financing is completed. A refinance of an existing mortgage(s) with loan associated fees rolled into the new loan balance will leave an equity balance of the property’s appraised value minus the new loan amount (example: $100,000 value minus $83,000 new mortgage principle loan amount [existing loan pay-off of $80,000 + $3,000 rolled-in new mortgage fees & escrows] leaves $17,000 in remaining equity). If the borrower chooses a ‘no cost’ refinance or pays the refinance associated fees out-of-pocket … the remaining equity balance would remain at $20,000 as stipulated in the first paragraphs simple example.
Equity in a property for sale purposes is the sales price minus all lien pay-offs and sale associated costs (ie: Realtor fees, property tax credits to the Buyer, transfer taxes, etc., etc.). As a simple example; a home sold for $100,000 that has a mortgage lien pay-off of $80,000 and $10,000 in total sales related costs will have a remaining equity of $10,000 that will be netted to the Seller after close.
I hope this helps in your understanding of property equity.
Q: I have a credit score of about 650, however, I have a judgement that will fall off 12/06. I am very interested in buying investment property. Are there any lenders that might finance my purchase with the judgement or do I have to wait? I do not have any late pays on my credit... Thanks for any help.
A: Your credit score is acceptable for many mortgage loan programs … however, as you have more than likely discovered your Judgment can be a mortgage lending issue.
Without additional information as to what type of judgment you are referring to, I am concerned about your statement that the judgment “will fall off 12/06”. If you are saying that an adjudicated judgment that has not been paid per court order will simply disappear from your credit report – I must disagree. To my knowledge, judgments and liens on persons will remain forever until they are paid/satisfied.
As to your question of whether there are purchase mortgage programs that allow for open Judgments, Collections, Tax Liens, etc., etc. – the answer is YES.
Important: You should be aware that all loans require clear title to the property and issues such as Judgments cannot affect title for final approval. The only way to determine if a judgment will affect title is to order a title policy for any property you desire to purchase. If you are preliminarily approved for mortgage financing - you should ensure your lender orders a title policy a.s.a.p. to ensure there will not be a title issue that results in a last-minute loan denial.
Finally, both purchase and refinance mortgage programs that allow for such situations are considered higher risk loans that have higher rates, higher fees, require more down payment, etc. Contact a recommended/reputable local mortgage broker that has experience in mortgage lending to borrowers with such situations for you mortgage financing options.
Q: I am a senior citizen living on less than $700 a month in social payments. My question to you is that if I get a reverse mortgage then what will happen to the $18,000 I now own on a home equity loan? And my daughter says that I will lose all the equity in my home. Is it true?
A: After receiving several similar questions regarding Reverse Mortgages ... I thought a Reverse Mortgage overview could be helpful.
A Reverse Mortgage offers seniors 62 years of age or older the ability to retain their personal and financial independence by combining mortgage and debt consolidation payment savings with monthly income - realizing real financial flexibility!
Unlike a traditional mortgage where the borrower makes payments each month, Reverse Mortgages provide payments to the borrower - in effect "reversing" the direction of the mortgage payments.
Reverse Mortgage loan programs receive high praise from sources such as AARP, FHA, Fannie Mae and countless national media sources ... and for very good reasons!
Top Reasons to Obtain a Reverse Mortgage:
1. Never Make Another Mortgage Payment 2. "Tax Free" Income via Monthly Payments, or a Lump Sum Payment, or a Line of Credit (or any combination of the three) 3. You Still Own & Live in Your Home 4. No Restrictions on Use of the Money 5. No Income, No Medical and No Credit Qualifications 6. All Remaining Equity is Yours (or your heirs) To Keep 7. No Debt will be Passed onto Your Heirs or Family Members 8. Possible Greater Net Worth after repayment
Reverse Mortgages are only available to seniors 62 or older and in the case of a married couple, both borrowers must be at least 62 at the time of application. Reverse Mortgages are only available on HUD/FHA recognized real estate (ie: no mobile homes sitting on wheels). The home must be occupied by each borrower as their primary residence and the mortgage comes due under all circumstances where the borrowers no longer live in the home.
Reverse mortgage terms are conservative by nature due to the fact that the lender will be holding the loan for an undetermined amount of time and the ultimate sale or refinance of the property must produce enough money to repay the loan + interest and fees. For this reason, the maximum allowable Reverse Mortgage loan-to-value depends on the age of the borrower and the equity remaining in the home. For these reasons, a 63 year old home owner with a current mortgage of more than 70 percent of their home’s value will not qualify for a Reverse Mortgage being as they more than likely will remain living in the home for many, many years to come without sufficient equity to repay the total loan.
Reverse Mortgages do have higher fees than many traditional mortgages so careful consideration is prudent … this is one reason why borrower counseling is a mandatory part of the loan process.
And finally, the only way to determine a borrower’s ability to qualify for a Reverse Mortgage based on age vs. equity while getting a comprehensive quote on the fees and terms is to apply with an approved Reverse Mortgage lender. I hope this helps!
Q: I tried hard and finally got my credit score in track. They are in 700's now. I am going to take a mortgage soon. Will this damage my credit score again?.
A: Congratulations on the achievement of good credit scores. It also appears you are taking the next logical step in utilizing your improved credit toward the best financial decision every consumer will ever make … buying a home will most likely be a large part of your future net worth and financial well-being.
Additionally your credit should further benefit once you acquire your new mortgage. There is no better credit than mortgage credit. On-time mortgage payments will ensure your credit scores remain favorable for many years to come.
Enjoy your credit and the new home it will allow you to own!
Q: I recently got a loan through [a heavily advertised national lender]. My first mistake was replying to the spam I got from them ... two of my loans [the loan officer] proposed to pay off in the refinance I now still owe money on because it was miscalculated how much I actually owe on the loans. He kept telling me he was getting better deals on the loans because of who he was ... the reason I think [the heavily advertised national lender] is unprofessional is more for the reason they sent me out the wrong loan it cost about $300 more a month then everything [the loan officer] and I discussed. I told them NO "I will not sign it". The girl that was doing the closing called her boss telling her I would not sign she then gives me the phone and she begs me to sign I say I cant its not the right loan. For the next few minutes they keep trying to tell me to sign the loan but I know I can not afford it. I thought this was very unprofessional. [The loan officer] calls me and tells me it's the wrong loan so they say they will bring out the right loan the next day and they do. I sign and get my loan then I find out I still owe money on two of my old loans. It just really sucks when you get a loan and have it spent to get you out of debt and it sinks you further. When I signed with [the original lender] they were just as bad they didn't tell me much and it ended up being adjustable interest rate which went up very quickly. While I am glad I got out of that loan. I would suggest not using [the heavily advertised national lender] they are a bunch of dirty spammers!
A: I am sorry to hear of your experience ... but I Thank You for sharing your experience so that others may understand the main issue in working with a lender that initially contacted you via online SPAM marketing.
There is no accountability for these companies. The loan officers are nothing less than cubicle sales people treating their sales leads as the potential income & bonuses that they are ... nothing personal, just business.
I highly recommend that consumers only seek the mortgage services of local/reputable mortgage brokers to acquire their mortgages. The financing will be custom fit for the specific borrowing needs of the applicant and the loan officer is a licensed professional that is a member of the same community - he/she will not do you wrong if they will be sitting next to you at the local Applebee's eating dinner sometime in the near future and depending on your referrals to earn a living for years to come
Thanks again for sharing your story for the benefit of others!
Q: I will be getting a divorce in a couple of weeks my name is not on the mortage however it is on the deed. I will be awarded the home what steps should I take as far as obtaining a mortage.
A: Very good question! You will need to refinance the property. Many times the divorce agreement will stipulate a time limit in which you are required to complete the refinance – for the protection of the current mortgage holder (ie: if you don’t make the payments on-time this will damage the credit of your soon-to-be ex-spouse who’s credit is tied to the mortgage.).
Too often our mortgage offices see potential clients post-divorce stating they need to refinance within the next 90 days … and this may or may not be possible depending on their personal borrowing ability. There are also the situations where a refinance is possible - however, do to one or more circumstances the new terms drive the monthly payments substantially upward ... causing payment shock and unanticipated financial hardship to the spouse that remains in the home.
Consult with a local/recommended mortgage broker to ensure you have the short-term ability to complete the refinance with terms that you can afford.
If your mortgage broker advises you will need more time than your divorce documents stipulate due to credit or income issues ... discuss these findings with your attorney as you may want to amend the divorce documents to allow adequate time for refinance compliance.
Q: We are looking to buy our first house from a family member who moved into the house about a 1 year ago, the question is what the prepayment penalty for the family member if he sold the house to us, he paid about $139,900 for the house.
A: A pre-payment penalty is part of a mortgage note that stipulates a pay-off of the principle loan balance prior to a certain date can result in a penalty based on a percentage of this balance. Not all mortgages have pre-payment penalties.
There are also two types of pre-payment penalties; a 'Hard' Pre-Pay and a 'Soft' Pre-Pay. The Hard pre-pay would have a penalty due if the property is either sold or refinanced prior to the pre-payment penalty date. The Soft pre-pay may have a penalty for refinancing but possibly no pre-payment penalty if the home is sold.
If your family member purchased the home with a mortgage, any possible pre-payment penalty would be detailed in the mortgage "Note". Your family member should have a copy of this Note from their loan closing. If they cannot locate the Note, they can request a copy from their current mortgage servicing company. Simply call the customer service number on their monthly statement.
To ensure you are interpreting the Note correctly, you can also order a mortgage pay-off from the servicing company by calling the same customer service number. The official mortgage pay-off will list any penalty in its calculation ... eliminating any doubts as to the amount due.
Q: Can a borrower qualify for a loan with higher debt to income ratio than required?
A: A Debt-to-Income Ratio (DTI) is a calculated income vs. expense percentage that is used to assist lenders in determining if a borrower can reasonably be expected to make on-time payments for a mortgage loan they have applied for.
In the past, the maximum allowable DTI for a mortgage loan applicant was set as a strict underwriting requirement ... usually capped at 42% based on the fact that most borrowers at this level did not default on their mortgage loans. The problem with this method was that many borrowers had proven the ability to make on-time payments at higher DTI's.
In an effort to improve risk based lending; Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac and HUD/FHA all developed Automated Underwriting Systems (AUS) that would allow for flexible DTI's based on the overall strength of the entire application. For example, a borrower putting 50% down on a home purchase does not create much lending risk ... so the loan approval may not require any proof of income from the borrower. If the borrower did need to show proof of income, the AUS may allow a debt-to-income in excess of 65%.
A reputable mortgage broker with a complete understanding of your specific borrowing situation will arrange mortgage financing with a mortgage program that allows for the risk you present as a borrower.
Q: Hi, my boyfriend and I are both on our house title, but recently we refinanced and when we showed up to sign, only my name was on the mortgage. Our broker told us it was no big deal, that we could add his name on the mortgage later, but I called my mortgage company and they won't do it. We need the interest tax write-off on his taxes as he is self-employed. Can he still claim the interest because he is on the title? Please give me any advice you might have.
A: Unfortunately, No. I suspect by your description of events that the mortgage lender found it either easier, or the only way to get the mortgage approved by using just your credit and income … and that the lender chose not to include your boyfriend as a mortgage co-borrower for this reason.
Your lender should have most certainly ensured you were aware of this situation well before the closing of the loan. If in fact your lender made the statement that this is “no big deal” and that you could add your boyfriend’s name onto the mortgage at a later date then their overall way of doing business seems uninformed, if not purposely disingenuous. You will in fact need to refinance the mortgage to add your boyfriend to the mortgage if he desires to utilize the mortgage interest tax deductions while benefiting on his personal credit from the on-time mortgage payments.
I am truly sorry for your experience and wish you luck on future mortgage transactions!
Q: I had applied for a Full Doc loan with my loan officer. The next day he told me that I can't qualify for the loan due to debt ratios. He suggested me to switch over to Stated Loan instead and show higher income. The reason behind is that they need not verify my income with the application. Will it be considered as a fraud if I do so? I am confused. Need advice.
A: Stated Income programs are designed to reward borrowers that have excellent credit but have technical issues with proving their income.
Originally only offered to self-employed borrowers, stated income products are now offered to W2 employees as well. As an example, a professional/established barber (like mine) may have a decent base salary but he also relies heavily on his annual tip income for his full lifestyle. The barber may not be able to prove-up on the tip income … so the barber may have to “state” his annual income to qualify for the loan (this example is a real loan that I closed).
In your case, your loan officer may in fact have a “Stated Income” mortgage loan that you qualify for … but he/she cannot now offer this program to you because they have full knowledge of your real income. Stated Income loans are not supposed to be used under these circumstances being as any income amount ‘stated’ onto a loan application that is anything greater than your real income is technically considered fraud.
At the risk of sounding disingenuous, the loan officer working on your behalf is not necessarily a bad person by suggesting a loan program that you do qualify for … but unfortunately, the series of events as you have stipulated means that the final result would technically be fraudulent -unless of course, you do actually have undocumented supplementary income that you can add to your documentable income for final loan qualification (see ‘barber’ example above).
Q: Hi, I was planning to buy a house in summer, could someone tell me the expected rates for house loans this year.
A: Predicting mortgage rates is like predicting the price of gas ... should you fill-up your tank today or wait until next Tuesday when prices may be lower?! Nobody REALLY knows!!
Much like gas price predictions, predictions for home mortgage rates are that they will continue to rise throughout the rest of year. Some economists believe rates on 30-year Fixed Rate mortgages could even reach 7 percent by the end of 2006.
The first action any potential home buyer should accomplish is being Pre-Approved by a local/reputable mortgage lender for purchase mortgage financing. The lender should use a higher than currently available rate of interest for this qualification ... to ensure you are still qualified if mortgage rates do increase during your search for a suitable home.
Your final rate of interest can only be "locked" once you have an accepted Contract to Purchase with a stipulated closing/possession date. Make sure any accepted purchase contract is forwarded to your lender as soon as possible so that your lock options can be presented - ensuring you lock-in the best available rate prior to any potential rate increase that may (or may not) occur between the date of your purchase agreement and your ultimate closing date.
Q: Are zero point loans and a no cost loan the same thing?
A: “Zero Point” generally means that the borrower does not pay any Loan Origination or Rate Discount points (as percentage of the loan amount) … however, all other associated loan fees are paid as usual (ie: appraisal fees, title fees, processing fees, etc.).
“No Cost” generally means that the borrower does not pay any loan fees whatsoever. All fees associated with the mortgage are paid by the lender. Some lenders will call a purchase mortgage a “No Cost” mortgage if the Seller will agree to pay all closing costs … but this version is somewhat misleading due to the fact that there are still costs associated with the actual loan.
As mentioned above, No Cost mortgages are available for home purchases. A true No Cost with no associated mortgage loan fees trades a higher rate of interest for the benefit of no fees … this rate increase earns the lender more revenue upon resale of your mortgage into the secondary market, thus allowing the lender the absorb the loan associated closing fees while still making a profit.
A termed ‘no cost’ program where there are actually closing costs, but where these costs can be paid by the Seller requires the cooperation of the Seller and may require you to pay a higher purchase price for the property so that the Seller still nets-out their required bottom-line amount from the sale of their property (ie: if a Seller would sell their home for $220,000 and you request the Seller contribute $5,000 toward your closing costs, the Seller may consider this if you instead pay $225,000 for the home – but keep in mind, the home must also appraise for the higher amount). As you can see, in either of these cases “No Cost” always has a cost.
As always - Consumers need to have a complete understanding of exactly what options are available and which type of program is most advantageous as a whole. The flat-fee, reduced-fee or no-fee loan option has a place if this type of loan makes good financial sense for the borrower and their specific borrowing scenario. Also, not all lenders are created equal when it comes to how much rate "bump" equals a specified closing cost reduction (ie: does a .25% rate bump always = a $500 closing cost reduction?). Consumers should not assume that an offered rate bump by any one lender is the best available tradeoff of an increased rate versus a certain "flat fee" or "no cost" financing.
Be sure to consult with a reputable/recommended mortgage broker before finalizing any loan scenario. It will always be in your best interest to have an impartial industry professional with an unlimited number of mortgage programs work on your behalf (as opposed to 'selling' you any specific mortgage product).
Q: Hi, I will be on six months of employment when I apply for the mortgage. This is my first job. Will it be sufficient to get a mortgage loan?
A: Two years stable employment is the general minimum required for full-document mortgage financing. 6 months on your "first job" is generally not enough time to allow for mortgage financing ... unless this employment is post-college where you gained the employment as a result of your recently acquired college education.
Of course there are mortgage loan programs that don't even require proof of employment if your credit is good enough and you have a substantial down-payment ... so the best way to get a qualified answer to your question is to make application with a reputable/recommended mortgage broker with experience in lending to people with similar situations as your own.
Q: My wife and I built a new home 2 years ago and financed by means of 1yr ARM. At the time, rates were in the 4% range. With the recent change in the market, we need to find a suitable refinance option. Our current mortgage balance is $300,000 with a home valuation of approximately $350,000. We are considering the IO ARM but wonder how dramatic the payments will change after the IO period ends. Is there any way to forcast that figure realistically? My very reliable and secure income is 60% salary and 40% bonus with an annual income of approximately $110,000. Can you help me think through all the variables before I decide?
A: I just completed a similar comparison for a customer of mine. Choices included; Interest Only Adjustable Rate Mortgages, Interest Only Fixed Rate Mortgages, Monthly Payment Option ARM’s and the newer 40 year Fixed program.
All loan programs that allow for Interest Only payments have a built-in rate premium that somewhat affect the overall payment savings. Plus, as you mentioned - you are once again putting yourself into a product that will adjust over time.
Although the 40 year Fixed program has a higher rate of interest compared to a 30 year Fixed … the monthly payments are actually very similar to an Interest Only program due to the longer amortization period. Plus there is the built in stability of known payments for 40 years to come.
Having made the 1 year ARM mistake in the past, I would think that the stability of low payments for a long time to come would be quite appealing ... research the 40 year Fixed versus the other options side-by-side prior to making a final refinance program decision.
Q: I used the Low Rate Advisors search engine and the lowest rate it showed was a 30 year @ 4.2% from Coastal Mortage. Are there any other better search engines? Do you think I can do better?
A: Low Rate Advisors, Bankrate, Lending Tree, etc., etc. are nothing more than marketing companies selling your information as "leads" to mortgage companies. There is no truth in advertising and the quoted rate you received is pure bait-and-switch advertising designed to get you into the loan process (after all - you won't call unless they have the lowest rate quote - right?!).
Every mortgage lender sets rates based on the same secondary market re-sale conditions and current no-load 30 year fixed conforming mortgages are ticking-up toward 6.375% ... this is a FACT, as opposed to advertising.
Some other facts about lenders, rates, published rates and rate quotes:
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All Lenders ARE Brokers: Regardless of advertising, all lenders (local banks included) sell or assign mortgages on the wholesale market and the cost of money is dictated by these sources.
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Wholesale Rates Post Daily At 9:30am EST; Quotes or published rates prior to this time are not accurate.
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Rates Change Throughout The Day; Like the stock market, mortgage rates change intraday as market conditions affect mortgage backed securities.
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Published, Faxed & Web Posted Rates are All "Old" Information by the time they reach consumers or real estate professionals.
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Quoted Rates Have No Real Meaning - unless the consumer is in a position to lock prior to a market change.
Published rates and rate quotes are an advertisement to get the borrower into the loan process. There is absolutely no guarantee that the published or quoted rate will be honored or that the final rate will reflect a possible improvement in the market (a better than quoted rate).
If you choose a lender based solely on the "Best Rate Quote", you are very likely to get a big surprise later. Make sure you shop smart - not just rate!
Don't gamble with something as important as your mortgage. Seek out a local mortgage broker that shops on your behalf, is competitive, makes the process easy and has a reputation for closing your loan as originally promised.
Q: I owner-financed a house 10 years ago and the buyer has disappeared recently, but the person who has been living in the house wants to assume responsibility for the mortgage. How do we legally handle since original owner is not to be found!
A: If you have a contract sale that has defaulted, you as the owner/financer have the right to reclaim the property. This must be done legally (at some cost) to ensure you have clear title and the ability to re-sell the property. Once you have completely cleared the old contract, you are free to re-sell the property to another buyer. Please seek legal advice and services to avoid future title issues.
Q: Most lenders will not give me a consolidation loan since my townhouse is valued less then $50,000. Come on I got a loan for it in the first place why not a loan on now? I checked with some of the online mortgage companys and some out of the phone book. One lending company seemed to be ready to give the loan but got turned off by my mortgage being 2 months late. I explained that I was on a repayment program and now my Staus should be current. Should I consider the bank I currently have my mortgage with? I figured my low credit score and history with them would not fit with the standerds for them. I was also considering a small local bank here in my area.
A: It appears to me that your mortgage loan is not an easy loan to approve based on the statements you have made. Otherwise, you would already have your consolidation.
I am concerned that you are ‘shopping’ for a loan on the Internet and by calling yellow page listings. Every time you repeat this step and provide a new company with your social security number they are pulling your credit and pulling your credit score down further … possibly eliminating your short-term chances of qualifying for a mortgage all-together.
Shopping for the best mortgage is a good idea … but there is a better way to do it. Apply a single time with a reputable/knowledgeable mortgage broker and allow them to shop on your behalf. The mortgage broker will only pull your credit one time and then forward your entire scenario and a copy of your credit to various wholesale banks and mortgage lenders. The experienced mortgage broker will know which lenders may most likely approve you for the loan based on your up-front situation. Many of the niche lenders you may require are only available through mortgage brokers being as they do not offer consumer direct retail loan products … so you will not find them in the yellow pages or on the Internet.
If you do not know of a good mortgage broker in your area, I suggest you contact your state’s Mortgage Broker Association for a broker recommendation.
Q: How can i stop the student loan people from getting a judgement against my property, would a quickclaim deed to my son help?
A: Federal student loan debts are not bankruptcy dischargeable and will follow you for life - with the unique ability to recover their monies as no other debtor can.
You MUST consult with a reputable attorney on this issue ... you are risking too much by not. There is a decent chance that an attorney that specializes in Social Security/Tax law will be able to get a reduction or even elimination of fees that have been added to the original balance in conjunction with a negotiated re-payment plan. Do yourself a favor and seek legal counsel a.s.a.p.
Q: Can a seller sells his/her home via refinancing to his/her son and his wife?
A: No. You can give your son ownership interest in the property by Quit Claiming him onto the title – however, any existing mortgage that was taken in your name will remain solely in your name and your responsibility.
Without more information I do not have a clear understanding of exactly why you simply don’t sell the property directly to your son. If you are attempting to sell the property below market value to your son you can do this as long as the new purchase mortgage successfully pays-off any existing mortgages.
If you are attempting to convey ownership to your son while at the same time pulling some cash-out for home improvement or debt consolidation - you may be aware that purchase mortgage financing is based on the purchase price … pretty much eliminating the immediate ability to pull cash-out during this type of transaction. Assuming this may be the goal, you can sell your home below market value to your son as a conventional purchase transaction and your son can refinance his mortgage at approximately 6 months based on the full appraised value of the home … possibly taking cash-out at that time.
If your son does not immediately qualify for a mortgage, you can sell him the property on Contract and use the Quit Claim process to give your son immediate ownership interest. With 12 months of on-time/documented (ie: canceled check) payments from your son based on the Contract Sale, your son should be able to refinance the home based on the appraised value (as opposed to the purchase price).
Just ensure you hire a reputable real estate attorney for any sale process and be sure you record any Contract Sale & Quit Claim. Also, you should have a reputable mortgage broker pre-view the entire situation to ensure your son will qualify for financing now –or- within the 12 months based on credit, debt-to-income ratios, etc.
Q: On a construction loan, when does the interest rate that we purchased become effective? Is it upon the settlement? And is the Commitment letter binding. Our lender is trying to back out of the contract/commitment we signed July. The closing was Sept. 1, the expiratin date of the commitment letter was Sept. 6. We rolled the closing costs into the loan, and began the payments as of the 1st of Oct. To me, that constitutes a binding contract. We are ready to modify this note from the construction phase, and the bank will not honor the interest rate previously set forth.
A: Generally speaking, a floating interest rate with interest only payments is due on the draw balance during the construction phase of the loan. In a Construction-To-Permanent or One-Time Close Construction Loan, the Lock-in Rate is effective upon that last draw and conversion of your loan to an End-Loan. The choice to pay extended locking fees guaranteeing a rate or to float the rate should be yours based on a complete understanding of the risks and costs.
Your closing should have required you to sign many documents ... including a Mortgage and a Note. The terms that you agreed to within these documents are the binding contracts of delivery.
Our office just completed a 12 month One-Time Close Construction loan on a custom home with a $1M loan amount. The rate was locked at the time of funding as a 30 year fixed program with no buy-down fee. There were no surprises to the borrower during the draw or conversion periods. Please understand that your situation is unfortunate but not indicative of the industry as whole - reputable lenders will explain everything, provide documents that disclose all aspects in writing and exceed expectations.
If you do not agree with what the lender is stating at this point in the transaction, you will need to review the closing documents for clarification. Any further dispute may require legal remedy by an attorney. Hopefully you had a reputable real estate attorney represent you at the closing ... and if not, you may want to interview one or more attorneys for possible review of your rights based on the signed closing documents. Please let us all know how this situation ends-up. We're on your side as the customer. Best of Luck!
Q: I have my scores 640 with TransUnion and Equifax but Experian is showing 560. I am going to apply for a mortgage soon. Now, which score will be used by the lender?
A: As a lender I can tell you that the middle of your 3 scores, which would be 640, will be the primary score used.
Although a 640 may qualify you for most conforming loan programs (subject to other qualifying factors such as; mortgage program desired, loan-to-value percentage, debt-to-income ratios, amount of reserves, etc.) there is also the conforming requirement that all three credit scores be above 620 to qualify for the best rate of interest.
If Experian is so much lower than TransUnion and Equifax, there must be one or more reporting derogatory accounts that have only been reported to Experian. I would research your credit thoroughly and repair any derogatories prior to mortgage application - if possible ...with the goal of getting all three scores above 620. Best of Luck!
Q: I am going to marry my long time friend. He has a poor credit. Is this going to affect my credit too?
A: Your future husband's credit will have no effect on your credit. Your credit is tied to your own Social Security number and everything you have done correctly in the past and will do correctly in the future will continue to benefit you.
When applying for a mortgage loan as a co-borrower with your husband, the credit emphasis is usually placed with the borrower that has the greater annual income (ie: if your husband makes more money, the qualifying credit scores will be based on his credit - possibly resulting in a program that has a higher-risk rate of interest or even a possible denial of credit).
Even if your income is the greater of the two, there are usually lending safeguards that require a co-borrower that has the lesser income still must have certain minimum credit scores for both borrowers to qualify for the mortgage. I would make it an important issue to clean-up your future husband's credit as quickly as possible so that future credit needs, where you may be co-borrowers, are not jeopardized.
Please don't hesitate to ask further questions that will assist you onto the right track for your future together. Congratulations on your upcoming nuptials!!!
Q: Can someone who claim bankruptcy still has a chance of getting a mortgage.
A: Good News! A person may actually qualify for purchase or refinance mortgage financing up to 100% of the homes value and/or purchase price as little as One Day after the Bankruptcy is discharged.
Mortgage brokers have successfully changed the way bankruptcies are considered with respect to mortgage financing. There are many different mortgage programs offered to consumers with a bankruptcy in their credit history.
Some background: Congress and the US Supreme Court intended personal bankruptcy to provide debtors a fresh start. This new beginning is not a gift, but based upon mutual interest. The rationale is simple: productive citizens contribute more professionally, pay more taxes, and spend greater amounts fueling economic development. Productive citizens enable our nation to continue to thrive.
Post-Bankruptcy home mortgages are a big part of this mutual interest and productivity. After all, life does continue and all consumers look forward to days of better financial position, prosperity and the American dream of home ownership!
The key to obtaining a post-bankruptcy mortgage is the borrower's post-bankruptcy credit. Most times a person's credit will have reporting errors due to the discharge of debts that may still be showing-up on credit as open accounts with possibly amounts past due. Consumers should consult with a reputable, local mortgage broker with experience in post-bankruptcy lending. Some credit repair may be necessary prior to loan qualification - however, this process has also recently improved with Bureau Level Rapid Re-Score programs offered directly to borrowers by lenders. The future is bright!
Q: The Federal Reserve has raised the rates again. I think this is going to make mortgage payments tougher for all. What do you think?
A: Unfortunately, there are no simple answers when it comes to the direction of mortgage rates of interest. Conventional wisdom is that home loan rates will steadily increase throughout the rest of the year ... but not as a direct result of the Federal Reserve raising or lowering the Federal Funds rate.
The Fed Funds rate is the interest rate banks charge one another for extremely short-term loans. Banks make these loans to one another, sometimes on an overnight basis, to cover account shortfalls.
By raising the Fed Funds rate, the Fed is hoping that banks, in turn, will charge consumers and businesses more to borrow money, which should slow down the economy with the goal of keeping inflation under control. So, when the Fed increases rates, the immediate impact is that banks raise short-term interest rates for things such as automobiles, consumer loans and adjustable rate home equity lines tied to Prime - which usually moves lock-step with the Fed Funds rate.
Home mortgages involve a much longer time frame, up to 40 years. The interest rates on these loans are not tied directly to the Federal Funds rate or lending Prime rate, but based on long-term bonds that are heavily affected by inflation expectations, market liquidity, investment returns, etc.
Here's an example: Let's say the prevailing wisdom among lenders is that our economy will experience a lot of inflation in the next decade or so. In that case, lenders will want to earn a higher interest rate on long-term loans to counter the effects of inflation. That means interest rates on home mortgages will rise.
A better indication than the Fed Funds rate as to where long-term mortgage interest rates are going are Mortgage-Backed Securities (MBS). Trends in the MBS bond market do have a direct impact on long-term mortgage rates of interest and are watched closely by lenders. MBS fluctuate minute by minute just like the stock market ... which is why mortgage rates can actually change several times daily if the bond market begins jumping around.
While it is never welcome when mortgage rates do increase ... historically mortgage rates remain extremely low .. and rates should remain relatively low for the near term. The housing market has supported the economy for many years now while more American's have been able to better afford homes than anytime in history. There should not be any extreme concern that this will change any time soon.
Q: I own a home, behind in the mortgage, I have someone who is interested in catching up payments, then continuing to make monthly payments, on the home for me, until we can sell the house....what is the type of deed I need? Deed of trust or Quick deed????? I'm so confused .....thanks
A: I assume you are giving title interest in the property to this third-party for the recovery of their invested money once the property is sold. This scenario should include a legal contract stipulating the terms of the agreement as well as a modification to title that gives this third party rights to some or all of the proceeds from sale.
Any modification of title should be written for your specific situation, goal, State of residency, etc., etc. This should always be done by utilizing the services of a reputable real estate attorney. The cost for the title modification work is usually no more than a $100 including filing fees. Having legal council perform this task will give you the peace of mind knowing that your interest as well the interest of the third-party is protected as you expect them to be. Best of Luck!
Q: My question is this. I am 67yrs old I have lung cancer and the doctor told me I have 6 month's to live. My wife is 57. Now if I take this reverse mortgage and I die in 3to6 month's. Do you kick my wife out and take my house or dose she still get to live here and the mortgage keeps untill she dies?
A: This is truly a heartbreaking scenario. The only good thing about any such situation is that you have some time to get your affairs in order so that your loved ones are taken care of once you have passed.
Both you and your wife must be 62 years old to qualify for a Reverse Mortgage. Even if you were to acquire a Reverse Mortgage on your own (ie: divorce, get the property in your name only, obtain a Reverse Mortgage, etc.) the Reverse Mortgage would become due upon your death and your wife would have to obtain a traditional mortgage to pay-off the reverse mortgage. So a Reverse Mortgage does not appear to be an option.
There may be other options (ie: Interest Only Mortgage) that can pay-off any existing mortgages while allowing your wife to better afford the payments after you are gone. However, making an informed decision will require that you provide much more information to a reputable mortgage professional than you will want to divulge within a public forum such as this.
I suggest that you contact a highly recommend mortgage broker that can assist you with your options on a time-table that will benefit your specific situation. Take care of yourself and ENJOY the time you have left with your friends and family!
Q: We temporarily have 2 mortgage payments until we sell house 1. Our loan on house 2 is very temporary (a few months at most) but has PMI. Can we get rid of PMI once we have paid 20%, which we can do now and our first payment is due soon. We can probably pay-off the entire loan in a few months. Thank you.
A: It is the prerogative of the lender to remove Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) that you agreed to at the time of the mortgage. Most lenders have a strict policy of keeping any initial PMI for a minimum of 12 months before they will even consider removing it.
That being said, it never hurts to try contacting the servicing company and request removal of the PMI based on the fact that your loan amount will be less than 80% of the purchase price of the property once you pay-down the principle. I would do this prior to making the actual pay-down, because ...
If the servicer will not remove the PMI you may want to reconsider putting additional monies onto your mortgage. Assuming your mortgage has a fixed term ... monies used to pay down the balance will neither remove your PMI nor reduce your minimum monthly payment. The money may be best used to eliminate other debts or placed into an investment account that will actually earn you additional money.
When your other home sells you can elect to pay-off the mortgage entirely or refinance the mortgage bringing enough cash-to-close that will not require PMI on the new mortgage.
Q: I have a loan due with Wells Fargo which has been sent to a collection agency for collection. The collection agency set the payment at $300 per month with the total balance $2100. I started to determine how much I could pay after going through a strict budget. I found that I can afford only $100 and requested them to set the terms again with the amount that I can afford. But they denied from doing so? What can be done?
A: Paying the collection is important so that your credit can reflect your making good on the debt.
The collection agency wants the money as quickly as possible and they will attempt to set-up a payment plan on their time-table. It is their prerogative as to what terms they say they are willing to accept as far as repayment is concerned.
However, I know of no law that states you must accept the terms offered by the collection agency. Your credit has already suffered so the collection agency cannot hurt you any more by reporting your payments are not what they would like them to be. Also, once an account goes to collection, the balance is frozen (after collection associated fees are added) … so the collection agency cannot asses more fees if your repayment timetable does not match theirs.
Pay as much as you can afford to pay while ensuring your other debts are paid on-time.
Prior to making your last payment to the collection agency, I suggest contacting a collection agency representative and ensure that once your final payment is received you will get a notice on the collection agency’s letterhead that denotes a “paid” or $0.00 balance on the account. Make sure this notice references the original creditor (Wells Fargo) and the original creditors account number so that you can have the account reported correctly on your credit report as a paid collection.
Q: I am a college student doing my graduation. Now, will it be better to start making repayments for the student loans while I am a student or shall I save money to build future assets like home which will require a down payment initially?
A: If I understand your question correctly, you are asking if you should start making student loan payments now or continue deferring your student loan payments until after you have graduated while saving the money you would use for these payments for a down payment on a house … I will gear my answer toward this understanding of your question. Buying a home is always easiest with good credit & some money to work with toward down payment & closing costs.
A great way to establish or improve upon existing credit is to make on-time student loan payments. Generally speaking, student loan payments can be structured to be very low compared with the amount of money borrowed. I have seen many combined student loan monthly payments in the $35 to $75 range … making student loan re-payment an inexpensive way to establish a solid credit rating.
So I would suggest that you do both if possible … start making payments on your student loans which will benefit your credit and save any additional monies toward the future purchase transaction at the very same time.
Q: We want to buy our first house as soon as we can. What is our first step? Should we approach a realty agent or a mortgage company to determine how much we can afford to pay for a house?
A: Your first home-buying step is to get pre-approved in writing by an actual lender who will issue you a pre-approval letter or certificate. Don't be fooled by any mortgage lender or realty agent offering to just get you pre-qualified.
A qualified pre-approval will require you to provide income, asset and other documented information to the lender for review. A written pre-approval should have a stipulated expiration date based on the dates of these provided documents and is usually valid for 60 to 90 days. Then you can shop with confidence for a house you can afford to buy.
Q: I’m moving back to Illinois but I do not want to rent so I’m looking to buy my first home. Do I have to be back in Illinois before I look for a home loan or can I start prior to relocating? Can you help me? Thank You.
A: Yes you can be pre-approved for a purchase mortgage prior to relocating from out-of-state. In fact, you are being quite wise to look into your financing options prior to making the move.
As with any home mortgage, one of the factors associated with getting an approval is your ability to repay the loan. Stable and current employment with proof of how much income you earn is required for most “full document” loans. If you are transferring within a company you already work for or have employment already lined-up in a similar line of work with an established employer, your home loan may be pre-approved without much issue.
If however, you will be relocating prior to securing new employment and yet you still desire to immediately purchase a home ... acquiring a mortgage may prove to be slightly more difficult. Depending on your credit and assets, a mortgage specialist with extensive experience in relocation loans may be able to deliver what is called a “No Employment, No Income” mortgage (affectionately referred to in the mortgage industry as a ‘NINJA’ loan :o). For this type of loan the lender will not require that you disclose any employment or income information. This type of mortgage generally requires excellent credit, prior home ownership with a satisfactory past mortgage payment history, a 25% down-payment from provable assets and a minimum of 6 months in reserve assets after the completion of the purchase. Consult with a reputable lender for more details as to your specific relocation mortgage options.
Q: I understand the value of a professional home inspection to home buyers. But I have also heard of horror stories from the seller's viewpoint. Overzealous home inspectors have found minor defects. As the prospective seller of a 35-year old home, I expect our home has some flaws. What recourse, if any, do sellers have for overzealous home inspectors?
A: As a home seller, before putting your home on the market for sale, you should have your own professional inspection made (along with a termite inspection and other customary local inspections, such as energy efficiency, radon, building code compliance, etc.).
I have done this many times. Then I usually have the recommended repairs completed before the home is exposed to the market. If I don't want to make the repairs, I just disclose the defect to prospective home buyers.
This technique is very impressive to home buyers. My experience has been buyers usually accept my professional inspection reports. If they don't, chances of their own inspectors finding defects are very rare.
Q: My husband had a bankruptcy filed one year ago. Is a purchase mortgage possible at this point? We have a home now that we have lived in for five years and have about 50K in equity at this time.
A: Quite possibly yes ... depending on your post-bankruptcy credit scores. I assume by the information provided, you did not include your house within the bankruptcy. By simply keeping your mortgage and making on-time payments after the bankruptcy - your credit should have already gained some ground on the negative credit affects caused by the bankruptcy.
Mortgage financing up to 100% can be accomplished in as little as one day after the discharge of a Chapter 7 Bankruptcy. A Chapter 13 must usually have been in repayment for at least a year or may be bought-out if necessary. Of course, not every person will qualify for 100% financing, so the fact that you will have some equity from the sale of your current home for down-payment will increase your chances of qualifying for a new mortgage.
I wouldn't spend too much time seeking this type of financing from a local bank or credit union being as their lending restrictions usually require at least 3 years after a bankruptcy discharge. Seek a recommended mortgage broker that has experience in post-bankruptcy lending.
Q: I have owned my house for about 10 years and have decided to buy a new one. What's the first thing I should do? Can I keep my current home and rent it out? If I decide to sell what are the pro's and con's of selling without a realtor. The market is really hot right now.
A: You have many really great questions. Assuming you are not going to pay cash for your new home, the first thing you need to do is discuss your purchase financing options with a reputable mortgage lender. There is no sense in even looking at new homes until you have figured out what you can afford to buy.
One of the scenarios you will want your lender to consider is the possibility of keeping your existing home for rental income while you purchase a new primary residence. From a lender's perspective, this means you want to qualify for a new purchase mortgage while keeping your existing home's associated expenses (ie: mortgage, taxes, homeowners insurance, association fees, etc.) figured into your ratios. If necessary, your lender should be able to offset at least a part of these expenses with a signed lease for your soon-to-be rental property. But keep in mind, only 75% of the rental income is usually considered due to most lenders' factoring out 25% of rental income for vacancies.
Selling your existing home without a Realtor is most certainly an option. However, you should make this important decision based on more than one factor. If you absolutely need every penny from the sale of your home for a new purchase this decision may be out of perceived necessity. Although it is true that using a Realtor to sell your home does come with additional costs, keep in mind that having an experienced Realtor market and sell your home generally maximizes your profits. You may want to get a recommendation from your mortgage lender for a good Realtor in which you can discuss your concerns and situation. An ethical Realtor will only recommend their sales services if they are actually beneficial. You might also want to consider asking the Realtor to sell your home at a discount if you agree to use the same Realtor as your buyer's agent for your new home purchase - with the added benefit that as a buyer, your Realtor will ensure you find a new home that meets all of your needs and desires at a price you are comfortable in paying ... at no additional expense to yourself. A true win-win-win situation.
Q: I'm interested in purchasing a single family home as an investment, possibly with two other investors (married) who would occupy the property. My husband and I have excellent credit, the other couple has mediocre to bad credit. What would be the best approach for a mortgage? If we opted for an "owner occupied" mortgage to allow for the lowest downpayment would the other couples credit rating negatively impact the benefits of a lower rate for owner occupancy?
A: Anytime investors apply together for financing the weakest party will worsen the terms for everybody involved - very possibly negating all benefits of owner occupied financing.
The only true way to determine the best mortgage program for your investment purchase is a complete review of both parties; credit, income, assets, debts, etc. A comprehensive review by a mortgage lender that has experience with investment purchase mortgages will narrow your financing options down quickly based on their findings.
As a side note, you may want to consider who you are actually going into 'business' with if their credit is not the best to begin with. If the other investor cannot pay their share of the mortgage and associated property costs - you will still be responsible for the entire amount. Also, any slow or late payments made by this other party will be tied directly to your own personal credit ... which may no longer remain excellent after the experience.
An option you may want to consider is to purchase the investment property by yourself. If you are still interested in including the other party as a part of the investment, you could enter into a side contract that would give them ownership interest for services performed such as improvements, maintenance, management, etc. This way you maintain control over your good credit and the other's have a vested interest in the success of the investment.
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